Raised bed gardening has a lot of advantages, such as less weeding and accessibility to vegetables or flowers. Since the soil in these beds drains easily, proper watering in a raised bed can be problematic. Because of the high drainage properties in these beds, it may be difficult to over-water, but under-watering is probable. To prevent under-watering, small and frequent applications produce the best results. Drip irrigation is the best way to water in these situations.

Instructions

1. Drill a hole in the side of a plastic garbage can approximately 1 inch from the bottom. The hole should be slightly smaller than the drip irrigation line. Situate the garbage can near the raised bed in an area higher than the bed itself. This will ensure that the water will exit the can through the force of gravity to reach the bed.
2. Insert the drip irrigation line into the hole in the garbage can to where the line has approximately 1 inch exposed inside the can. Push the line into the hole firmly by hand. The small area of the hole will help provide a more water-tight seal. The drip irrigation line must be long enough to stretch from the garbage can to the furthest end of the raised bed.
3. Screw the female end fitting equipped with a small screen to the exposed drip line inside the garbage can, and then push the fitting until it is flush with the inner side of the can. Squeeze plastic sealant generously around the fitting and the drip line inside and outside the can. Allow the sealant to set according to the product's instructions.
4. Stretch the drip irrigation line across the center of the raised bed to the farthest end from the garbage can. Fold the end of the line over and secure it with a hose clamp. Use a screwdriver to tighten the clamp so the water cannot escape from the end of the drip irrigation line.
5. Poke holes for the micro-tubing into the drip irrigation line using the tool provided with the micro-tubing. The amount of holes and tubing necessary depends on how many plants are in the raised bed. Each plant requires one line of micro-tubing. Press the ends of the micro-tubing without the end weights into the holes. Stretch the micro-tubing to the base of each plant. The end weights will hold the tubing in place when you water.
6. Fill the garbage can with water. Put the lid on the garbage can to prevent evaporation and keep debris from entering the water supply. The drip irrigation system will continuously apply small doses of water to the raised bed. Refill the can with water as needed.

Tips & Warnings

• If a poking tool was not provided with the micro-tubing and end weights, use a sharp knife to poke the necessary holes. If needed, apply plastic sealant around where the micro-tubing is inserted into the holes to achieve a water-tight seal.

Source: eHow
Author:Elan Kesilman

Beginning gardeners often look for easy-to-grow plants that will allow them to enjoy the gardening experience without a great deal of maintenance or die-off. Fortunately, there are many kinds of plants, flowers, shrubs and grasses that give great results with a minimum of time and trouble. Of course, you must choose plants that are suitable for the climate in which you live. Consult the U.S. hardiness zone map and your local county agricultural extension for advice on the best plant species for your area.

Easy-Care Annuals

A number of varieties of annual flowers are very easy care and produce beautiful results in outdoor gardens. Marigolds and zinnia are very hardy annuals that you can start from seed, and they will do well even in the heat of summer. Cosmos are a type of flower that is often recommended to beginning gardeners because it is so easy to grow in almost any kind of soil. It is self-seeding, which means it will make more cosmos without having to do anything. Dahlias are another easy-to-grow flowers that give rich rewards with its beauty. It thrives in the sun and will bloom from late summer to early fall.

Hardy Perennials

Perennials are a natural choice for those who want easy-to-grow flowers with few maintenance chores. Peonies produce huge blooms in white, pink, and deep red on tall, woody stems in late spring and early summer and will continue to reappear year after year with just a minimum of care. Hosta is a favorite in many Midwest gardens because it thrives in any shady area and needs little care. Its lush foliage complements any landscape and its tiny purple flower adds interest to any garden. Daylilies produce beautiful orange flowers throughout the growing season, need little care, and spread easily to fill any area.

Bulbs

Once properly planted, garden bulbs will produce blooms year after year, spreading easily to fill the spot they are given. Bulbs come in many different varieties, from tulips and hyacinth to lilies and amaryllis. The trick is to plant them at the correct depth. Always follow package directions carefully to produce good blooms.


Flowering Shrubs

Shrubs are a mainstay of every landscape and are a wonderful backdrop for other plants. For the easiest-care shrubs, plant evergreens like evergreen azaleas that produce lovely flowers in the spring with little care. In the South, crape myrtle produces long-lasting white, pink, lavender or red flowers in the summer and leaves turn orange or red in the fall.

Low-Maintenance Vegetables

There are even a number of easy-to-grow vegetables to add to your garden that will yield tasty results with a minimum of work. Plant carrot seeds in a sunny area and let them grow. Radishes spring out of the ground days after planting and are ready to eat in four to six weeks. Try planting the large seeds of bush beans for an easy-care crop that produces one or two yields per season. They need at least six hours of sun per day.

Source: eHow

A cottage garden evokes a sense of whimsy, as it's comprised of sprawling paths, informal seating areas and seemingly haphazard plantings. Since these gardens are so carefree, they are fairly easy to plant and following some simple tips will help you create a cottage garden that will provide you with years of enjoyment.

Hardscaping

Hardscaping -- paths and patios, for instance -- are an important element of a cottage garden, as they allow you to enjoy the plantings that fill the space. When planning a cottage garden, begin by laying out the design for your hardscaping. Create meandering paths that wind through the space and patios where you can arrange sitting areas. Natural materials, such as slate and river rock are ideal materials; however, if you're seeking a less expensive option for these surfaces, brick, cobblestone, stamped concrete or even crushed seashells or pea gravel are all attractive alternatives.

Architectural Elements

Once you've laid out the pathways and patios, incorporate some architectural elements. A gazebo or an arbor with a bench placed in the middle of a path is an inviting place to sit and take in the beauty of the garden that surrounds you. If you happen to have a stream running through your property -- which, coincidentally, fits in well with a cottage garden -- build a rustic bridge over it. A waterfall or fountain adds visual appeal, in addition to bringing a soothing sound to the garden.

Plantings

After the architectural details have been paved out, it's time to incorporate the plantings. While the gardens in this space may seem chaotic, they actually do require planning. Plant spreading wildflowers, such as lavender, purple coneflower and black eyed Susans in mounds. Flowering vines -- wisteria, honeysuckle and clematis -- and climbing roses add interest and height to the garden. Arrange these plants in front of trellises, a gazebo or next to an outdoor wall. Add color along the walkways and borders of the garden with bright, colorful annuals -- dianthus and impatiens, for example. Don't forget to incorporate trees in this garden, as they provide shade and add beauty. Ornamental trees to consider include dogwood, sugar maple and chokeberry. Fruit trees, such as pear, apple and cherry, not only lend beauty, but can also be harvested.

Furnishings

Tie the look of the garden together with furnishings. Create a seating area with Adirondack chairs, a wicker sofa and a wood chaise lounge. Relax in the midst of the garden while swinging in a hammock that's suspended from two trees. A fire pit or outdoor fireplace warms the garden on cool evenings. Hang strings of lights from trees and line paths with lanterns or solar lights.

Source: eHow

Hundreds of flowering perennials and flowers exist, and most of them prefer partial to full sun. Local nurseries and garden centers carry plants that grow well in your area and many offer a guarantee on their plants. When buying plants, choose a complementary color scheme, and start with three or four favorites. A few well-chosen plant varieties generally look better than many different kinds of flowers, unless you have a large garden.

Plant Selection

Carefully select sun-loving flowers that thrive in your area. Perennials, such as coneflower, Jupiter's beard, lavender, salvia and coreopsis, grow in almost any soil and tolerate drought. Others, such as roses, clematis and lupine grow best in a sunny location with evenly moist soil. Choosing plants that thrive in the conditions naturally present in your garden creates healthier plants and reduces maintenance.

Soil Amendments

Few soils are the perfect combination of sand, clay or silt, known as loam. Adding a few shovelfuls of well-rotted compost or manure to soil improves drainage and texture and adds nutrients. Till soil for a perennial bed to a depth of 12 inches, since the bed is permanent.

Planting Times

Sun-loving flowers suffer some shock after planting, just like any other plant. To minimize transplant shock, plant in the spring and plant in the evening, on a cloudy day if possible. Water the plants thoroughly after planting and keep them evenly moist for the next four weeks, until new growth emerges. Perennials may be planted through the summer and early fall, but their growth may initially suffer because of hot weather. With adequate water, they rebound quickly.

Maintenance

Feed plants with a starter fertilizer after planting and thereafter, annually, in the spring. Many perennial and annual flowers benefit from deadheading (the removal of dead blooms). This practice keeps the garden tidy, reduces self-sowing and encourages more blooms. A wood chip mulch conserves moisture and minimizes weed growth. Mulches also stabilize soil temperatures, keeping soils cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

Container vegetable gardening is a good solution not only for the space-challenged, but for people with limited mobility. Container vegetables are easy to water and care for and require no weeding. Nearly any vegetable that grows in a backyard garden can be successfully grown in a container.

Instructions

1. Select the right container for your vegetable plants. The size of the container depends on the mature size of the plant. An 8- to 10-inch pot containing 1 to 2 gallons of soil can support radishes, green onions or one pepper plant. A 12- to 14-inch pot containing 3 to 6 gallons of soil can support carrots, eggplant, beets or one dwarf tomato plant. Use a large pot that will hold 10 to 20 gallons of soil for cucumbers, squash, cabbage, Brussels sprouts or a full-sized tomato plant.

2. Prepare the container for planting. If the container has no drainage holes, drill at least four drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Fill the container with a good quality, all-purpose potting soil. Allow about 1/2 inch at the top of the container to allow for watering.

3. Mix a balanced, slow-release fertilizer into the soil. Use 1/2 tbsp. of fertilizer for each gallon of soil. Slow-release fertilizer will supply the plant with nutrients for several weeks.

4. Dig a hole for each plant, using a trowel. The hole should be no deeper than the size of the plant's root ball since planting too deep cause cause plants to rot. The exception is tomato plants, which should be planted up to 1/2 the length of the stem. Place the plant in the hole, then pat the potting soil around the roots.

5. Water the vegetable plants immediately after planting. Thereafter, check the soil daily and water if the top inch of the soil feels dry to the touch. Containerized vegetable plants may need to be watered every day during hot weather. Water early in the day. Water at the base of the plants and avoid splashing the leaves as much as possible.

6. Place the plants in the appropriate level of sunlight. Most vegetables require at least six hours of sunlight per day. A few plants, such as cabbage, lettuce and spinach, and root crops such as onions, turnips, radishes and beets, will benefit from afternoon shade. Tomatoes, peppers, squash, green beans and eggplants require full sunlight.

7. Fertilize the plants with a supplementary fertilizer about 10 weeks after planting. Apply a general-purpose liquid fertilizer at the rate recommended on the fertilizer package label.

Source: eHow

Rose is a symbol of love and a flower of classic beauty in a bouquet or garden. Many gardeners find growing roses challenging or mysterious, but proper techniques can keep a bed of roses growing in nearly any garden. Plant your roses in optimal conditions, care for them meticulously, and a garden of roses will reward the homeowner with years of flourishing blooms.

Instructions

Planting a Rose Garden

1. Choose a location for your rose garden that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily, away from nutrient-robbing bushes, shrubs or trees. Pour water onto your proposed site to check if the water drains properly and quickly since standing water stunts rose growth.

2. Prepare to plant your rose garden in the spring, after temperatures have warmed past the danger of an overnight freeze, when soil does not hold standing water.

3. Top the soil in your desired planting bed with 2 to 4 inches of compost. Add 2 lbs. of superphosphate to each 100 square feet of area. Mix the compost and superphosphate into the soil.

4. Dig holes the approximate depth of the root bundle approximately 8 to 18 inches apart. Place each rose plant into a hole and cover with the soil. Water the roses thoroughly to incorporate the root bundle into the planting bed.

5. Add 1 or 2 inches of mulch to the bed, pushing it right up to the rose plants.

Maintaining a Rose Garden

1. Water the soil around the rose plants at least 12 inches deep at each watering using a watering can. You may need to use an irrigation hose in the bed the first season after planting if your area does not receive regular rain. Do not use a sprinkler to top the roses with water.

2. Test the soil periodically using pH testing strips. Shoot for a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. If pH is too high (alkaline), add 1 lb. of sulfur per 100 square feet. If pH is too low (acidic), add 1 lb. of sulfur per 100 square feet.

3. Apply 1/10 lb. of actual nitrogen throughout the soil three times during your rose season, spacing the application evenly. Find out how much actual nitrogen is in your garden nitrogen additive by checking the label.

4. Prune roses by cutting away all diseased and dead branches at a 45-degree angle to the main bush. Trim rose bushes as needed to maintain the desired shape and size.

5. Protect rose plants through winter by mounding up some of the mulch around the base of the plant. Place a protective plant cylinder over the plant for the duration of the winter. Remove the mound of mulch from around the base of the plant after winter passes.

Tips & Warnings

• Climbing roses should be removed from the item they climb before winter and covered with 3 to 4 inches of soil for protection.

• Although bare-root rose plants cost less than potted roses, rookies should choose potted roses because they are easier to plant and tend to fare better.