Make your dining room a comfortable and elegant place to dine.
(photo: Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images)

Before the table can be set, the cuisine savored, and the conversation relished, a host must create a dining room conducive for such appetites. The quintessential dining space provides a comfortable yet accessible environment according to Cindy Young, owner of Decorating Den Interiors in San Francisco. With a few key additions, any formal dining room can become a great dining room.

Light, Color and Practicality Must Be Served in a Dining Room Plan

Lighting

Soft, warm lighting begins with a semi-transparent valence.
(photo: Getty Images)

Dining rooms should be comfortable spaces, and lighting is an important element to consider.

“Lighting is really key for creating an intimate dining setting,” Young said. “You want to incorporate soft, warm light.”

If you are lucky enough to have a fireplace, Young said it should be lit for the party. If you don't have a fireplace, put floor lamps around the dining space. Some buffet lights and candles for the tabletop may also give the area some mood lighting.

“You want to establish light around the room for levels and layers of light,” Young said.

Two chandeliers, particularly those that can provide incandescent illumination, are superior choices for overhead lighting, said Ivette Arango, owner of Ivette Arango Design Inc. in Miami.

Arango strongly suggests overhead lighting with a dimming option. That option can create the perfect lighting at any time of day.

Deep Colors

Striped upholstery on chairs adds luxury and
style to a dining space.(photo: Getty Images)

You want to give your guests the sensation of dining in a rich environment. Arango said striped fabrics and luxurious brocades create a sense of opulence. She recommends maintaining a color scheme and aesthetic consistent with the rest of your home, but leaning toward warm, dark colors in the dining room.

Young agrees. She advises people to avoid cooler shades.

“Stay away from blues, because psychologically people associate them with mold,” she said. “Stay away from deep, cool colors and stick to your reds and your yellows.”

She suggests that those with bold tastes fuse metallic accents into the color scheme.

“Add fabrics or window treatments that have sheen or shimmer," she said. "One-hundred percent silk is good for that.”

If you utterly love cool colors and plan to use them no matter what, Young recommends gray and silver. They can form an “elegant and classic” color palette.

“The main thing is you want a dining space to feel relaxed and enjoyable … so you don’t want anything overwhelming to the eye,” she said. “Avoid a lot of contrasting colors.”

Table and Chairs

Mixing the style aesthetic of your chairs and table
make for a modern look. (photo: Getty Images)

Experts have a hard time advising people on dining room furniture because the size of the area is a major factor in which table shape is best for the room.

"It really depends on the size of the room and your goals for entertaining,” Young said.

Both designers said round tables are generally better for small dining rooms. Additionally, a round table creates a greater sense of openness, whereas a rectangular table lends a more formal air.

“Round tables are more inviting to talking; people are more on the same level,” Arango said. “Usually, with a round table you see faces better, you talk better.”

Ideally, there should be 2 feet of space for each of your diners. For a round table, that space should be at least 8 feet wide.

The designers recommend incorporating some sort of furniture that complements the table and chairs. Some options include a credenza, china cabinet or serving board.

“That way, you can have the coffee or dessert at hand but not have everything on top of the table. It makes serving easier,” Arango said.

At all costs, avoid creating a cluttered space that is cumbersome to guests sitting down or getting up from the table.

Accents

Arango and Young say unequivocally that a few extras can help make a dining room perfect. A well-placed mirror will open up a small dining space and accentuate the lighting. If mirrors are not your thing, Young suggests adding tasteful yet unique artwork to provide the space character.

“You need something special for any room,” she said. “Add photographs or art that is special to you and your family and that can be a conversation starter.”

Another smart choice is hardwood, tile or marble flooring with an area rug. A hard-surface floor is easier to clean, and the rug gives the room an extra bit of charm.

“Plus, (the rug) gives you more flexibility in redesigning the space,” Young said.

She suggests a square area rug under a round dining table “to give some shape variability differential to the eye.”

Young said there should be 30 inches of space behind each chair. That should give the chair enough sliding room so it does not come off the carpet.


Source: eHow
Author:Jaime Guillet

Raised bed gardening has a lot of advantages, such as less weeding and accessibility to vegetables or flowers. Since the soil in these beds drains easily, proper watering in a raised bed can be problematic. Because of the high drainage properties in these beds, it may be difficult to over-water, but under-watering is probable. To prevent under-watering, small and frequent applications produce the best results. Drip irrigation is the best way to water in these situations.

Instructions

1. Drill a hole in the side of a plastic garbage can approximately 1 inch from the bottom. The hole should be slightly smaller than the drip irrigation line. Situate the garbage can near the raised bed in an area higher than the bed itself. This will ensure that the water will exit the can through the force of gravity to reach the bed.
2. Insert the drip irrigation line into the hole in the garbage can to where the line has approximately 1 inch exposed inside the can. Push the line into the hole firmly by hand. The small area of the hole will help provide a more water-tight seal. The drip irrigation line must be long enough to stretch from the garbage can to the furthest end of the raised bed.
3. Screw the female end fitting equipped with a small screen to the exposed drip line inside the garbage can, and then push the fitting until it is flush with the inner side of the can. Squeeze plastic sealant generously around the fitting and the drip line inside and outside the can. Allow the sealant to set according to the product's instructions.
4. Stretch the drip irrigation line across the center of the raised bed to the farthest end from the garbage can. Fold the end of the line over and secure it with a hose clamp. Use a screwdriver to tighten the clamp so the water cannot escape from the end of the drip irrigation line.
5. Poke holes for the micro-tubing into the drip irrigation line using the tool provided with the micro-tubing. The amount of holes and tubing necessary depends on how many plants are in the raised bed. Each plant requires one line of micro-tubing. Press the ends of the micro-tubing without the end weights into the holes. Stretch the micro-tubing to the base of each plant. The end weights will hold the tubing in place when you water.
6. Fill the garbage can with water. Put the lid on the garbage can to prevent evaporation and keep debris from entering the water supply. The drip irrigation system will continuously apply small doses of water to the raised bed. Refill the can with water as needed.

Tips & Warnings

• If a poking tool was not provided with the micro-tubing and end weights, use a sharp knife to poke the necessary holes. If needed, apply plastic sealant around where the micro-tubing is inserted into the holes to achieve a water-tight seal.

Source: eHow
Author:Elan Kesilman

Beginning gardeners often look for easy-to-grow plants that will allow them to enjoy the gardening experience without a great deal of maintenance or die-off. Fortunately, there are many kinds of plants, flowers, shrubs and grasses that give great results with a minimum of time and trouble. Of course, you must choose plants that are suitable for the climate in which you live. Consult the U.S. hardiness zone map and your local county agricultural extension for advice on the best plant species for your area.

Easy-Care Annuals

A number of varieties of annual flowers are very easy care and produce beautiful results in outdoor gardens. Marigolds and zinnia are very hardy annuals that you can start from seed, and they will do well even in the heat of summer. Cosmos are a type of flower that is often recommended to beginning gardeners because it is so easy to grow in almost any kind of soil. It is self-seeding, which means it will make more cosmos without having to do anything. Dahlias are another easy-to-grow flowers that give rich rewards with its beauty. It thrives in the sun and will bloom from late summer to early fall.

Hardy Perennials

Perennials are a natural choice for those who want easy-to-grow flowers with few maintenance chores. Peonies produce huge blooms in white, pink, and deep red on tall, woody stems in late spring and early summer and will continue to reappear year after year with just a minimum of care. Hosta is a favorite in many Midwest gardens because it thrives in any shady area and needs little care. Its lush foliage complements any landscape and its tiny purple flower adds interest to any garden. Daylilies produce beautiful orange flowers throughout the growing season, need little care, and spread easily to fill any area.

Bulbs

Once properly planted, garden bulbs will produce blooms year after year, spreading easily to fill the spot they are given. Bulbs come in many different varieties, from tulips and hyacinth to lilies and amaryllis. The trick is to plant them at the correct depth. Always follow package directions carefully to produce good blooms.


Flowering Shrubs

Shrubs are a mainstay of every landscape and are a wonderful backdrop for other plants. For the easiest-care shrubs, plant evergreens like evergreen azaleas that produce lovely flowers in the spring with little care. In the South, crape myrtle produces long-lasting white, pink, lavender or red flowers in the summer and leaves turn orange or red in the fall.

Low-Maintenance Vegetables

There are even a number of easy-to-grow vegetables to add to your garden that will yield tasty results with a minimum of work. Plant carrot seeds in a sunny area and let them grow. Radishes spring out of the ground days after planting and are ready to eat in four to six weeks. Try planting the large seeds of bush beans for an easy-care crop that produces one or two yields per season. They need at least six hours of sun per day.

Source: eHow

A cottage garden evokes a sense of whimsy, as it's comprised of sprawling paths, informal seating areas and seemingly haphazard plantings. Since these gardens are so carefree, they are fairly easy to plant and following some simple tips will help you create a cottage garden that will provide you with years of enjoyment.

Hardscaping

Hardscaping -- paths and patios, for instance -- are an important element of a cottage garden, as they allow you to enjoy the plantings that fill the space. When planning a cottage garden, begin by laying out the design for your hardscaping. Create meandering paths that wind through the space and patios where you can arrange sitting areas. Natural materials, such as slate and river rock are ideal materials; however, if you're seeking a less expensive option for these surfaces, brick, cobblestone, stamped concrete or even crushed seashells or pea gravel are all attractive alternatives.

Architectural Elements

Once you've laid out the pathways and patios, incorporate some architectural elements. A gazebo or an arbor with a bench placed in the middle of a path is an inviting place to sit and take in the beauty of the garden that surrounds you. If you happen to have a stream running through your property -- which, coincidentally, fits in well with a cottage garden -- build a rustic bridge over it. A waterfall or fountain adds visual appeal, in addition to bringing a soothing sound to the garden.

Plantings

After the architectural details have been paved out, it's time to incorporate the plantings. While the gardens in this space may seem chaotic, they actually do require planning. Plant spreading wildflowers, such as lavender, purple coneflower and black eyed Susans in mounds. Flowering vines -- wisteria, honeysuckle and clematis -- and climbing roses add interest and height to the garden. Arrange these plants in front of trellises, a gazebo or next to an outdoor wall. Add color along the walkways and borders of the garden with bright, colorful annuals -- dianthus and impatiens, for example. Don't forget to incorporate trees in this garden, as they provide shade and add beauty. Ornamental trees to consider include dogwood, sugar maple and chokeberry. Fruit trees, such as pear, apple and cherry, not only lend beauty, but can also be harvested.

Furnishings

Tie the look of the garden together with furnishings. Create a seating area with Adirondack chairs, a wicker sofa and a wood chaise lounge. Relax in the midst of the garden while swinging in a hammock that's suspended from two trees. A fire pit or outdoor fireplace warms the garden on cool evenings. Hang strings of lights from trees and line paths with lanterns or solar lights.

Source: eHow

Though there is some variance in approaches to modern design, the universal factors of modern interior design include unexpected uses of materials, limited embellishments and bold uses of both neutral and accent colors. Mid-century modern design introduced an alternative to the more homey arts and crafts movement of the 1920s and 1930s; modern color palettes combine unassuming neutrals with unusual and bold accent colors to create a visually interesting interior landscape.

Mid-Century Modern Colors

Mid-century modern design emerged as the contemporary design aesthetic of the 1950s and 1960s. The color palette of mid-century modern design included a balance of neutrals with unusual hues of basic primary colors like red, blue and yellow. To create a mid-century modern look, begin with a simple neutral color on walls; crisp or slight off-white is a suitable and adaptable option. Incorporate accent colors into room accessories, furniture and fabric. Choose pieces that include ruddy, rust-like red, burnt orange, grayish yellow or royal blue. Most mid-century modern palettes include several accent colors in a single design to create an unexpected color scheme. For the maximum effect, choose accents and accessories that incorporate colors through unexpected fabrics or materials. For example, select an ottoman upholster in a brownish orange leather rather than a traditional brown leather. Choose heavy curtains made from burlap-like materials in a burnt yellow color for a dramatic window treatment.

Modern-Contemporary

Contemporary modern homes play off of mid-century modern design aesthetics by selection-updated versions of modern color schemes. For example, instead of a neutral white or cream wall color, opt for a cool, neutral slate gray to give the space a sense of sophistication. Contemporary accent colors are bolder and brighter than mid-century modern accent colors. Instead of burnt orange, choose electric orange. Swap out brownish yellow for neon lime. Rust red is exchanged for hot pink. On their own, such accent colors are too stimulating for a space, but the cool balance of gray walls tones down the effects of a bright accent color. Add accent colors through throw pillows, area rugs or room fixtures like face plates and hardware. For even more elegance, include a black furniture piece in a highly reflective finish; a black acrylic coffee table offers a modern element in a contemporary room.

Eco-Modern

One critique of modern design believes that the color palettes create uninviting spaces that read cold and over styled. For a less abrasive modern look, draw color cues from the natural environment to create an Asian-inspired modern scheme. Soften harsh white walls with a cream, beige or off-white wash. Select accessories or accent fabrics with pale blue or green patterns or shades. Choose undyed natural fibers like bamboo, hemp or burlap for rugs, curtains and flooring. Opt for light-colored natural wood accents; avoid dark finishes that drag down the light, airy color scheme of the space.


Source: eHow

Hundreds of flowering perennials and flowers exist, and most of them prefer partial to full sun. Local nurseries and garden centers carry plants that grow well in your area and many offer a guarantee on their plants. When buying plants, choose a complementary color scheme, and start with three or four favorites. A few well-chosen plant varieties generally look better than many different kinds of flowers, unless you have a large garden.

Plant Selection

Carefully select sun-loving flowers that thrive in your area. Perennials, such as coneflower, Jupiter's beard, lavender, salvia and coreopsis, grow in almost any soil and tolerate drought. Others, such as roses, clematis and lupine grow best in a sunny location with evenly moist soil. Choosing plants that thrive in the conditions naturally present in your garden creates healthier plants and reduces maintenance.

Soil Amendments

Few soils are the perfect combination of sand, clay or silt, known as loam. Adding a few shovelfuls of well-rotted compost or manure to soil improves drainage and texture and adds nutrients. Till soil for a perennial bed to a depth of 12 inches, since the bed is permanent.

Planting Times

Sun-loving flowers suffer some shock after planting, just like any other plant. To minimize transplant shock, plant in the spring and plant in the evening, on a cloudy day if possible. Water the plants thoroughly after planting and keep them evenly moist for the next four weeks, until new growth emerges. Perennials may be planted through the summer and early fall, but their growth may initially suffer because of hot weather. With adequate water, they rebound quickly.

Maintenance

Feed plants with a starter fertilizer after planting and thereafter, annually, in the spring. Many perennial and annual flowers benefit from deadheading (the removal of dead blooms). This practice keeps the garden tidy, reduces self-sowing and encourages more blooms. A wood chip mulch conserves moisture and minimizes weed growth. Mulches also stabilize soil temperatures, keeping soils cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter.

Container vegetable gardening is a good solution not only for the space-challenged, but for people with limited mobility. Container vegetables are easy to water and care for and require no weeding. Nearly any vegetable that grows in a backyard garden can be successfully grown in a container.

Instructions

1. Select the right container for your vegetable plants. The size of the container depends on the mature size of the plant. An 8- to 10-inch pot containing 1 to 2 gallons of soil can support radishes, green onions or one pepper plant. A 12- to 14-inch pot containing 3 to 6 gallons of soil can support carrots, eggplant, beets or one dwarf tomato plant. Use a large pot that will hold 10 to 20 gallons of soil for cucumbers, squash, cabbage, Brussels sprouts or a full-sized tomato plant.

2. Prepare the container for planting. If the container has no drainage holes, drill at least four drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Fill the container with a good quality, all-purpose potting soil. Allow about 1/2 inch at the top of the container to allow for watering.

3. Mix a balanced, slow-release fertilizer into the soil. Use 1/2 tbsp. of fertilizer for each gallon of soil. Slow-release fertilizer will supply the plant with nutrients for several weeks.

4. Dig a hole for each plant, using a trowel. The hole should be no deeper than the size of the plant's root ball since planting too deep cause cause plants to rot. The exception is tomato plants, which should be planted up to 1/2 the length of the stem. Place the plant in the hole, then pat the potting soil around the roots.

5. Water the vegetable plants immediately after planting. Thereafter, check the soil daily and water if the top inch of the soil feels dry to the touch. Containerized vegetable plants may need to be watered every day during hot weather. Water early in the day. Water at the base of the plants and avoid splashing the leaves as much as possible.

6. Place the plants in the appropriate level of sunlight. Most vegetables require at least six hours of sunlight per day. A few plants, such as cabbage, lettuce and spinach, and root crops such as onions, turnips, radishes and beets, will benefit from afternoon shade. Tomatoes, peppers, squash, green beans and eggplants require full sunlight.

7. Fertilize the plants with a supplementary fertilizer about 10 weeks after planting. Apply a general-purpose liquid fertilizer at the rate recommended on the fertilizer package label.

Source: eHow

Rose is a symbol of love and a flower of classic beauty in a bouquet or garden. Many gardeners find growing roses challenging or mysterious, but proper techniques can keep a bed of roses growing in nearly any garden. Plant your roses in optimal conditions, care for them meticulously, and a garden of roses will reward the homeowner with years of flourishing blooms.

Instructions

Planting a Rose Garden

1. Choose a location for your rose garden that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily, away from nutrient-robbing bushes, shrubs or trees. Pour water onto your proposed site to check if the water drains properly and quickly since standing water stunts rose growth.

2. Prepare to plant your rose garden in the spring, after temperatures have warmed past the danger of an overnight freeze, when soil does not hold standing water.

3. Top the soil in your desired planting bed with 2 to 4 inches of compost. Add 2 lbs. of superphosphate to each 100 square feet of area. Mix the compost and superphosphate into the soil.

4. Dig holes the approximate depth of the root bundle approximately 8 to 18 inches apart. Place each rose plant into a hole and cover with the soil. Water the roses thoroughly to incorporate the root bundle into the planting bed.

5. Add 1 or 2 inches of mulch to the bed, pushing it right up to the rose plants.

Maintaining a Rose Garden

1. Water the soil around the rose plants at least 12 inches deep at each watering using a watering can. You may need to use an irrigation hose in the bed the first season after planting if your area does not receive regular rain. Do not use a sprinkler to top the roses with water.

2. Test the soil periodically using pH testing strips. Shoot for a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. If pH is too high (alkaline), add 1 lb. of sulfur per 100 square feet. If pH is too low (acidic), add 1 lb. of sulfur per 100 square feet.

3. Apply 1/10 lb. of actual nitrogen throughout the soil three times during your rose season, spacing the application evenly. Find out how much actual nitrogen is in your garden nitrogen additive by checking the label.

4. Prune roses by cutting away all diseased and dead branches at a 45-degree angle to the main bush. Trim rose bushes as needed to maintain the desired shape and size.

5. Protect rose plants through winter by mounding up some of the mulch around the base of the plant. Place a protective plant cylinder over the plant for the duration of the winter. Remove the mound of mulch from around the base of the plant after winter passes.

Tips & Warnings

• Climbing roses should be removed from the item they climb before winter and covered with 3 to 4 inches of soil for protection.

• Although bare-root rose plants cost less than potted roses, rookies should choose potted roses because they are easier to plant and tend to fare better.

We can reduce the high electric bills by doing some smart things, or simply want to improve the environment by using less energy, by changing a few habits will save electric bills also also energy.

Instructions

1. When you leave a room, turn off the light. Avoid using more light than you need. Few activities require turning on every lamp in the room. Replace incandescent light bulbs with energy-efficient light bulbs like compact fluorescent lights (CFLs). When compared to a 60-watt incandescent bulb, over its lifetime a CFL will last ten times longer and save up to $30 on electric bills.

2. Moderate the temperature inside by turning the air conditioner or furnace up to five degrees above or below your normal setting. For example, if you normally set your air conditioner to 70 degrees, change it to 75 degrees. You may need to shed your socks and put on shorts or a tank top, but you will see a significantly smaller electric bill. In the winter, put on a sweater or thicker socks before turning down the heat. Being conservative with your home's temperature is one of the easiest ways to save energy.

3. Use less hot water. Wash clothes with warm or cold water. Only run the dishwasher with a full load, and turn off the "heated dry" cycle; most dishes will dry naturally from the heat remaining inside the dishwasher. Use slightly cooler water in the shower and shower quickly. Wash your hands and face and brush your teeth with cold water.

4. Buy products marked with the Environmental Protection Agency's Energy Star. Products boasting the Energy Star rating meet the strict energy saving standards of the EPA and the US Department of Energy. Using them will lower your electric bill.

5. Install insulation to prevent cold and hot air from seeping in and out of the house. Hanging insulating drapes will save energy. Wrap the water heater in insulation and paint your ceilings and walls with insulating paint that reflects heat back into the room. Adding insulation to exterior walls will definitely save energy, but requires significant expense. Insulating just the attic is a cheaper alternative that will cut your energy bills.

Source: eHow